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We spent Thanksgiving in Yosemite… this is a biannual family reunion.  The celebration takes place every two years or so, and has since 1968… We mostly go to Yosemite, but have met at Cambria, Monterey and  Sonora.

Our son and his girl friend Sienna flew in from Florida Thursday night…  This is our introduction to Sienna... We like her... Our daughter and a friend of the both son and daughter (Gina) joined us (she was born near San Francisco but this was her first trip to Yosemite) Gina has been with us in this blog before... She joined us on the SF - Ft Lauderdale trip a couple of years ago...

We left San Mateo (near SFO) a bit after 10:00 on Wednesday, traveling in two cars (there were 6 of us.) We were trying to get away a bit ahead of the crowd.  Generally our timing worked… We had traffic, but not bad traffic until Manteca, where traffic from southbound on Hwy 99 was backing up on to 205.   We got off the freeway and visited the Bass Pro shop…  I needed some stove fuel for later in the weekend… at least that was the excuse…  The Bass Pro is kind of a destination in itself, and a window into a non-urban lifestyle…  Yes, people still hunt, and there is nothing that cannot be made in camo…

Back on the road, past 99 traffic calmed… we stopped in Oakdale for sandwiches at Ferrarese's Deli… (Ferrarese’s is rated No 1 in Oakdale on trip advisor, for good reason… it can be crowded…  It wasn’t today) then gas (hint: if driving to Yosemite via 120 Oakdale is the last of the cheap gas.)   Back on the road we made good time through Chinese Camp (we didn’t stop, but if this is your only chance to visit gold country take a few minutes and drive about the remains of this almost ghost town.)    

From Chinese (locals drop the “camp”) you drive along the shore of Don Pedro reservoir.   The reservoir was almost dry… a statement about the ongoing drought.  At the end of the reservoir you reach Moccasin, home of a hydroelectric power plant and a fish hatchery (but no gas).  Here Hwy 120 turns to the left, eastward, and begins to climb in earnest, while Hwy 49 goes straight, through Coulterville, to meet Hwy 140 near Mariposa.  Hwy 49 is a very curvy mountain road, but if there is snow on 120 it offers a low altitude (if slow) option. 

We stayed on Hwy 120… taking the old stage coach road, Old Priest Grade … it’s a well marked right turn… note… Old Priest Grade is very steep, narrow, and curvy… I crawled up in first gear.  Cars can overheat… don’t try the road if driving an RV or towing…   The gates are occasionally locked.  But with all the cautions, it is a short cut… and a bit of excitement on the drive… and a bit of the old west…

Once at the top, we rejoin the old road… through Big Oak Flat… There are a couple of interesting buildings left from the gold rush, notably the IOOF hall.  Beyond Big Oak Flat you find Groveland… Also dating to California’s gold rush.. Groveland has services and restaurants… (some quite good.)  Groveland has a Christmas tradition of wrapping every vertical pole in foil and red ribbon, simulating a big candy cane…  the town is quite narrow, and the main street is Hwy 120… take it slow through town…  

Beyond Groveland you are in the Sierra… a 2 lane mountain road… a nice 2 lane mountain road…  10 miles or so from Groveland we encountered the burn… left by the Rim Fire… this was one of California’s largest wild fires in history… it is reportedly still burning, but fully contained and controlled.   We pulled over at an overlook, where the US Forest Service had set up interpretive signage.  This is a road that our family knows well… there have been 3 or 4 fires though parts of it in the last 25 years.  We are used to burned landscapes, but this one was bad…    As my wife and I tried to remember when each tract had burned our daughter discussed the biology of recovery (quick growing low plants to stabilize the soil, these eventually driven out by shade from the new trees).  Most of the rest of the way into the park was in or along the margin of the burn… 
At the Big Oak Flat entrance to the park we bought an Annual Parks Pass… For $80.00 a year you get unlimited entrance to National Parks, Monuments, as well as BLM sites… My old one expired in September.  This one will carry us though Yosemite (probably a couple of times), Death Valley in December, Lave Beds, Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Tetons in July…   It’s a passport to wonderful places…

We stopped at the entrance station… for a restroom break… We have a family tradition of a toilet paper census (19 rolls on the way in, 14 in one stall in the way out, 9 in the other… these bathrooms always have many, many rolls of toilet paper… it’s a family joke… we always take a census, and they never disappoint… and 19 ties the record for this site.)  Meanwhile I walked around back… the fire reached the entrance station… burning within 20 feet or so… but here the fire was “cool” burning only the under layer and fallen pine needles… leaving the trees green and healthy.

Leaving the entrance station we saw some snow along the road… not much… we continued to drive through the fire zone…  At Crane Flat we passed the last gas… there is no gas in Yosemite Valley… If you need gas get it here…  We didn’t need gas and didn’t stop…  This is where the Tioga Pass road takes off… It was closed by the last snow…  possibly for the season.

Dropping down into the Valley we were passing through burn zones… but most from a previous fire…not from the Rim fire… Back in 1988 or so Tina (aka the Dear Wife) and I were evacuated from Yosemite Valley when a fire burned through Floresta threatening to close roads into the Valley… in the years since there has been another fire… Floresta meadow is clearly visible from 120… a view once blocked by trees…

We finally reached the Valley floor about 4:30, 6 and a half hours after we left…  not quite a record.

We stopped at Bridal Vale Falls… walking up to the base of the falls… Water is low but the falls were still impressive.  Continuing up the Valley we saw a herd of deer near the chapel…   We headed directly to the lodge (as a kid growing up it was the “Lodge” or “Yosemite Lodge”, it is now “The Lodge at the Falls”) where we checked in.  The Lodge consists of “modern” 2 story motel like buildings surrounding a central dining/retail/check-in area…  There is a shuttle stop for the free Yosemite Valley shuttle…

Our rooms were grouped together (a surprise since we added one late) in the Hikory building… all on the 2nd floor, all with balcony’s.   The children faced the center complex… they could see how long the line was in the cafeteria, or when the shuttle came…  We had a view of Half Dome… We won…

When you check in at any Yosemite lodging… at any campground… you are told about bears, and bear food safety…  To a bear, a car looks like a can of baked beans… and his claws look like a can opener… bears are dog smart… they can smell an M&M at several hundred feet… through a closed car window… they know what a ice chest looks like… they know what packaged food looks like… they like to eat… When you check in you have to a warning about bears… and how to practice bear safe food storage…  So, you have to remove all food or food like material from your car… and store it in your room or in a bear box if camping… If you don’t, you can be cited, your car towed (to a bear safe location) or, the bear can open you car, using his claws, climb about inside eating anything, likely including the seat backs… then poop before leaving…  We stored all food in our room…  (side story… I have visited Yosemite 50+ times… staying in the lodge or at Curry in cabins, camping in Valley floor camp grounds… backpacking… hanging a food bag from a tree, I have never been raided by a bear… following basic rules will keep you and the bear safe… Its not that hard if you follow basic rules)

Back to our adventure…

Having checked in, and having moved all food and such to the rooms, 4 of us went to the Awhannee, and walked about and had dinner in the bar… The bar at the Awhannee has nice, lighter menu… not cheap but not expensive… of course nothing in Yosemite is cheap… The ladies had desert for dinner… I had the pulled pork tacos… The Awhannee bar has the level of service and food for which the Awhannee is known… not Awhannee guest are welcome.

Back to the lodge… I walked about a bit and found family members gathered in the bar… (Since our last visit the Lodge has added a bar with food service… the menu is nice… the service is spectacular… It offers a new family friendly light dinner option.)  We planned the next day’s family hike…

Next morning… Thanksgiving… Son and girlfriend up early… hiking the falls… Daughter and I get coffee (coffee coupons included with room) then head to the old apple orchard above the stables near North Pines…  Once in the orchard, we find bear scat, cougar scat, coyote scat, deer scat… but no animals…  they have been here, but we don’t see them,  until we return to the Jeep… which is surrounded by deer…   Heading back to the lodge we see deer including  a 4 point buck and coyote.  All from the road.

The family has a group hike to the viewing bridge above Misty Island… this year we seem to spit up… some hiking all the way… others to Misty Island… some try the hike but turn back…  The family is getting old.  We all make our own way back…

We use the afternoon to walk around Yosemite Village and the visitor’s center…  We try to get a sandwich in the deli but the line is long… and we abandon the effort…  We buy some chips and dip, crackers and cheese in the store and return for a group picnic…

The family (now 40 of us or so) gather at 5:00 at the lodge… we had arraigned a private room for our group of 40… We are next to the Mt Broiler room and are served their Thanksgiving menu buffet style… Turkey and Roast Beef, all the sides… wonderful deserts… We had the room for some hours… sharing photos, and playing Bunko… a long time family tradition…

The next day we have a family picnic planned…  The girls get up and go to the Awahnee for breakfast…  I walked over to Swinging Bridge picnic area… early… and there are people starting to set up… walk back, grab son and jeep with supplies and head over… we claim some tables, a couple of Barbeques … set up for the picnic… it is about 9:30… about 11:30 the first of the family arrives to find a fire, a barbeque with charcoal burning, and a stove with two pots of chili cooking…

People eat, drink, talk… we take the traditional family photos… one for each generation, plus one of everyone… Friends, who are camping stop by and take the big “everyone” picture… by 3:00 people are leaving… some back to their lodging, others headed out for home… there are planes to catch.

We clean up… I “give away” the fire and left over wood to people who have stopped to picnic, then walk back to the lodge.   Eventually the kids decide to go ice skating at Curry… I ride over with them, then walk back as far as the village before catching the shuttle back to the lodge…  It is a moonless night, dead dark… the sky and stars are spectacular…

The next morning we rise… I go over and get coffee… then we pack the cars… The son, his girlfriend and the extra daughter head back early… the wife and daughter and I go to the Awhanee for breakfast…  Outside there are deer… a 4 point buck is chasing off younger bucks… a 5 point buck is collecting his harem… they fight… not seriously, but in the process scatter the people crowding around to take pictures… then head home… Yosemite had one more surprise… just after passing El Cap meadow, a bear and her cub run across the road ahead of us…

The drive home was quick… just over 3 hours…

12 photos… Just 12 photos… now in Black and White...

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I like to take photographs…  I have for some time… back in the days of silver chloride and silver bromide and dark rooms and such… I own two enlargers… trays… tanks and reels and such… all mostly obsolete…mostly in the attic...

I was lucky to go to a high school, and later colleges with photography programs… In high school we had darkrooms and studios and two full time photo teachers… we learned the technology, the chemistry, the rules of lighting and composition…

I have thousands of black and white negatives… many still waiting their turn to be printed… Some just record events… but some, even many are images… taken as art…    (not my father Art… art as art… )

Black and white turned to color slides… and eventually to digital… trading silver for silicon chips…

Changing technology has challenged my understanding of the technology… of control of the medium… but not my understanding of what makes a good image…  good composition, interesting lighting…  but the changing technology makes capturing the image more difficult… I have more to learn…  a new challenge…

If I learned anything, it was go out, take photos, look at the photos you have taken… be critical, and learn from what you see…

Now, with more time, I am revisiting the older images… liking what I have found… Some just family photos, but some more… I am scanning the good prints… I will be moving to either scanning negatives, or alternately printing and scanning prints of negatives.  Currently my slide scanner doesn’t like my operating system, so I will likely be buying third party softwear…

I have for several years had a rule (or at least a personal challenge)  to limit my albums to 12 photos… 12 photos are a good measure… 12 good photos… no more than 12 good photos…  These are not the hours long slide shows of National Lampoon’s Summer Vacation… they are 12 photos that speak to a place or time…   the first of the B&W images (B&W images is a link... just saying) is up…   A collection of photos of LA, and trips north… 

Randy

Rainy day thoughts

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It’s raining…Here in the land of endless sun…

No, It’s not raining, it’s pouring…  and we welcome it… Here in northern California this is notable… we haven’t see rain in some time…  months… we are in a drought… Likely still in a drought after this rain…
 
Yesterday the daughter and I went to the local Safeway... on a grocery run... we encountered two accidents in the 4 or so mile trip... the first a one car roll over... on slick, rain damp streets... (everyone ok) the second a two car accident a block from the first... rain = slick streets = cars go bump...

Tioga Pass closed at 8:00 last night… It may reopen if we don’t get more rain… but for now it is closed…

By my measurements, we are somewhere around an inch… in an hour…

Here in the west our vision of rain and drought is different… drought is not a local phenomena… if it never rained here we might still have water…  such is the way of a dry place on the coast with high mountains about 100 miles away to catch snow…   snow that will be our water some months or years later…

But any rain is welcome… and this rain is bringing snow to the high Sierra… Tioga pass may have closed last night and I may have noted its closing earlier… in this post.

In a week I will be in Yosemite… and drive past the turn off for Tioga Pass at Crane Flat… I can check the status for myself… next week… I will check the devastation from the Rim fire as well… sometimes eyes on the ground are what is needed to understand the issues… The Rim fire was in part a result of the drought… but also the result of 100 years of forest management… bad forest management… I note that reports suggest that the fire was less intense, more natural within Yosemite National Park… a park with a long standing well thought out fire management plan…

Outside the rain is slowing… I went out and swept off the driveway in the rain, using the free water to help clean the yard…   The yard is dry… in need of water… the plants holding on, living on the water I measure out from a rubber hose (rubber is much better than vinyl or other plastics… )

I have a bit of fire wood on hand… I need more… the rain suggests winter and the change of seasons…

Randy

New Years trip planning...

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Tina, Step and I are headed to Tucson for a party on Saturday, December 29th  We plan to drive to Paso Robles on the 26th… then to Tucson… then home… Steph is flying home…

We need places to stop… Important places…  I may be thinking about where to stop… I may be consulting Road Trip America… a site dedicated to wonderful wacky places… http://www.roadsideamerica.com/

Day 1, There isn’t much in the Salinas Valley…  we will save our time for wine tasting in Paso…

Day 2, Heading from Paso Robles to Tucson,

On Hwy 46, at the jct of Hwy 33 the last place James Dean stopped for gas… I think a photo is in order…

We could stop at Original McDonald's Site, Museum  Bonus: Behind the museum Juan Pollo gag delivery cars.    Address:  1398 North E St., San Bernardino, CA

A easy one is the Cabazon Dinosaurs atop Beaumont Pass   We may just want to wave, but they reportedly have a shop in the belly of one of them…

Shields Date Garden in the Date Capital of the World…  They have date milk shakes…80225 US Highway 111, Indio, CA   this is likely a “must do”  We have been talking about date shakes for years… according to some the movie… The Sex Life of Dates it particularly special… I am going for a shake…

General Patton Memorial Museum… Chiriaco Summit, CA - http://generalpattonmuseum.com/  I doubt we will stop, but we can wave at the tanks displayed outside…

There are airplanes on sticks and a silly sign in Gila Bend…

(Time out for a family gathering, a party… in Tucson… )

Now day 4, On the way back… Now just Tina and I... Steph has flown home... Leaving Tucson towards Kingman… beyond Phoenix… things start to get interesting…..

Wikieup Trading Post… with a jail cell photo op… and other tacky things…   Nearby there is rocket on a stick with snoopy riding it cowboy style…18040 S Highway 93, Wikieup, AZ

Kingman, Arizona  We will spend the night here... local attractions inclued the 3,333.33 Feet Above Sea Level Marker  (Power House Museum)  The museum complex includes a room dedicated to Andy Devine… a whole room…  I figure Mexican food for dinner… maybe a diner for breakfast…

Day 5, As we head north we will encounter the Ruins of Santa Land… 13 miles north of Kingman on Hwy 93 – this should be worth a stop…

A bit further… Cloride AZ….   Rock and junk art…. A bit off the hwy…  Not sure if we will make this one…

Once we reach Nevada,  we can stop in Boulder City, Nevada  to see the  Statue of a Belatedly Appreciated Outhouse Cleaner  Alabam was a Hoover Dam worker who cleaned and restocked the outhouses. The bronze statue depicts him as he often looked in life, with rolls of toilet paper draped over his shoulder.  Address:   600 Nevada Way, Boulder City, NV

We will head out of Las Vegas on Hwy 95… At Hwy 373 we head south to get to Death Valley Jct… but as we turn at the Junction of Hwy I-95 and Hwy 373 we will find the Area 51 Alien Center – Really a Truck stop, painted an unfortunate shade of bright green, with a whore house out back…  Nearby is the world’s largest firecracker 

There is a giant fiberglass cow along 373 as we head into Death Valley…  I am fond of the Amagosa Hotel (and Opera House) and Death Valley Jct… It dates back to the railroad and there plan to create a tourist center in the Valley about 1929…

Day 6, The next day we will visit Death Valley Scotty’s Castle… beyond we will loop through Beatty… with a casino parking sign without a casino…

Outside of town is the ghost town of Rhyolite, with a real bottle house… and the Goldwell Open Air Museum… and the 30’ tall pink lego woman… before heading into Titus Canyon…

We will spend New Years evening, sunset on the dunes… I will have a bottle of something bubbly… we will sit and watch the sun go down for the last time in 2013… and toast 2014.  We will spend the night at Stovepipe Wells…

Day 7, New Years… Homeward bound… Leaving Death Valley on New Years day, heading  to the Owens Valley (the alternative via Trona has been washed out since September) we can visit the Joshua Tree from The Joshua Tree (U2 album cover…) of course THE tree has died and fallen, but there are memorials to the tree and the band…

If Tioga pass is open we will visit Yosemite and the high country… I am torn… If we can go Tioga the ongoing drought is bad… but what a drive…   More likely Tioga will be closed and we will drive Walker Pass, to Isabella and the Kern River canyon… If there is lots of snow (hopefully) we will go over the Tehachapi’s, then north, home…

At least that is the plan…  I suspect you may be able to read about it hear in early January....

Road Trip Planning and a giant Penguin

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I have been participating in a discussion on the Travel Advisor boards on how to plan a road trip…
Personally, I use Google maps and a spread sheet… with lots of options… lots of versions, but usually have a paper map on hand as well.  I mostly use the web, but have AAA guidebooks at hand… The spread sheet drives the planning… My spread sheet self calculates time and distance at various speeds… I look for transits that will get me where I need to be… at a speed (and resulting time) I am comfortable with… I make a differentiation between transits… getting somewhere and road trips… wandering along a route…

The first two or three plans don’t survive… they don’t stand the test of distance and time, and things along the way, or nearby… easy detours…  are found to distract…  and add time ruining a otherwise good plan… but also distance starts to veto transits… we need to be realistic… 

I like weird stops, and check http://www.roadsideamerica.com/ for sites along my route…   AAA guide books are good, once you have an idea of where you are going…   If you have any specific interests, search for sights related… I will search for house museums… for railroad museums…  (I will miss most.. but I like to know what I am missing…)

I try to say aware of sunset… Unless headed home or on a hard drive to get away from home I generally stop before sunset.  

You need to know how far you are willing to go in a day, and allow sufficient time to go to places you want to visit to avoid the dreaded sightseeing drive by…  “Wow… there is a historic marker… pull over… wow… I didn’t know that… hit the road we are losing time….”

Of course, there is always too little time and too much to see… 

Currently the lovely Tina and I are planning a couple of trips… In the near term to Tucson for a family gathering, then on the way back via Death Valley… The first day exploring some back country trails in the Jeep…  We will spend New Years eve in Death Valley… I plan on taking a bottle of champagne and sitting on the sand dunes near Stove Pipe Wells for sunset… sunset is probably our midnight… our New Years… followed by a fast trip home via Walker Pass…

The second trip is more complicated, with more decisions…

That trip is to Glacier National Park… in late July… Glacier is some distance from San Mateo (aka “Home”)… two days at least… Since I have retired (and the lovely Tina has not…) I will drive to Spokane Washington… She will fly…  I will take three days or so for the journey… she will take a few hours…  From Spokane it is a day, with distractions to get to the vicinity of Glacier National Park… We are planning to drive I-90, with a visit to the National Buffalo Reserve on the way…  We like buffalo…

We have run 3 spreadsheets to plan the travel… we are not done, but the trip is taking shape… the spread sheets… (spread sheet version 2.2 or so… ) drove possible travel dates… reservations at Glacier Park Hotels drove the exact dates (at least while in Glacier… the before and after are still in play)  We will spend the night near Glacier in Kalispell… at the local old school grand hotel… the Kalispell Grand… I have a good feeling about the place… it has taken 3 emails to work out the details but we have a reservation… the interaction only made the feeling better… it was a conversation, not filling out a form… and we have a reservation… 

Beyond Kalispell we will wander Glacier National Park… to East Glacier and the Glacier Park Lodge...  The Prince of Wales Hotel (Canada... a different country... ) Many Glaciers Hotel and Lake McDonald...

Once done with Glacier (can you ever be done with any National Park, much less one as grand as Glacier…???   Probably not… just done until next visit… ) but beyond we have decisions…
Our trip beyond Glacier is in its 5th or 6threvision… Originally Tina was to fly home from Montana… then from Salt Lake after a drive along the Bitteroot Highway…  Now, we are likely to drive home together via Ely and Tioga pass… after transiting the Bittteroot Highway and Hayden Valley in Yellowstone, with a dinner at a brewpub in Jackson…  

Beyond Glacier the trip is now revolving around the Bitteroot Highway… and a 26’ tall talking penguin statue in Cut Bank, Montana.  I am also looking forward to the brew pub in Jackson.

The travel planning is as much fun and lasts longer than the trip…  and nightmares of penguins last longer that anything else...