RSS Feed
Twitter
It must be a vacation, I find I don't know the day or the date...
Picton is a small port city at the top of the South Island, where the ferries to the North Island land and leave from. As such, it is dominated by its railroad yards (they put trained on the ferry too) and backpacker hotels.
Our ship was docked next to the ferry docks... All day ferries arrived, unloaded, loaded, and left... Passengers, cars, trucks, and railroad cars... There are two ferry companies, the Interislander, the New Zealand government boats, and Blue Bridge, the private competitor. The ferries are a mixed lot, at least one an ex-English Channel boat... Only some of the government boats carry trains, the Blue Bridge does not.
We took the free shuttle into town, got off at the town museum (the only stop). The museum was a classic small historical society, with displays of irons, and other house hold goods, and photographs of local families... having an English flair, the Lord Mayor's necklace, a heavy silver badge of office, accompanied by photos of various mayors was found, prominently displayed... What set this museum apart, was its collection of whaling photos and memorabilia... Not just a few wrought iron harpoons and the routine large black iron pot for trying blubber (and would likely serve for missionary stew, if you wanted a stew rather than the locally preferred barbeque, but I digress)... There was an unexpected sadness surrounding the whaling displays... The story was not just the sailing whalers of the early 19th century, but also talked of modern whaling, with harpoon cannons shooting 200 lb explosive projectiles... Which were thoughtfully displayed (both the gun and the projectile)... With photos and diagrams of the processing, which had taken place at shore based processing stations as recently as 1966. I love industrial history, and understand that logging and mining and such, including whaling all came with an environmental cost, and can usually separate the environmental damage from the history... (one professor used to say "the devil got that best lines" when discussing some of the industries, and stories of the past such as mining, industrial fishing, or logging... I have long agreed, loving the tales, but apparently my compartmentalization has a limit, and modern whaling is beyond that limit. ) I found myself staring at displays of old irons, from heat on the stove top to coal heated, to electric... Not particulaly compelling, but preferable to large explosive harpoons. I don't know why, but chasing and killing a whale ( or writing about it) from a wooden boat with a hand harpoon is romantic, while with a steel boat, a steam powered weapon, it is not.
We walked up the main shopping street... It was clearly designed to appeal to tourists, with appropriate shops full of post cards and glass kiwi birds... But also boasted a hardware store, a super market and several real estate offices... It was not cruise ship tourism (not that they didn't welcome us) but instead "backpacker tourism" a local term for low budget tourists, many a bit younger than those aboard our ship, who tour either via camper van, or with a backpack in place of a suitcase. With this being the the southern terminal for the ferries between north and south islands, it was a focus point, with "backpacker" hotels, youth hostels, and pubs dedicated to the trade.
Having explored, and the ladies having successfully shopped (both from our and the local shop keeper's points of view) Karin (aka: dear sister) took the shuttle back, while T and I headed back afoot along the harbor front... I wanted to see the Edwin Fox, an 1850's sailing ship (THE 9th oldest ship in the world) now preserved within its own dedicated museum. The museum was located a great distance away, possibly as much as 100 yards... (Picton being a small place). Tina sat and read while I visited the museum... They have a small building with offices, the book shop and such downstairs, and a first class, well crafted, very well researched museum dedicated to the ship's construction and voyages upstairs. Built in India, her first voyage took her to England loaded with tea, where the ship was sold, and chartered to the British sailing with troops to the Black Sea, and the Crimean War ("Into the valley of death rode the 600") Back with wounded, then converted to a convict ship bound for Australia, later converted to carry settlers to New Zealand where she was later converted to freeze sheep carcasses, then used as a warehouse before being beached, abandoned.
Being well built, much of her wood teak, she did not rot quickly, and being recognized as historic, an effort was launched to preserve her. She now sits in a covered dry dock next to the museum building. The preservationists did the unexpected... They did not try to restore the ship, only stabilized and preserved (and interpreted) what survived... The bare hull, a bit of her copper plating still attached, and a bit of decking mostly at the bow... Visitors get to go aboard, walk the bit of deck, where they have replicas of steerage berths, and a first class bed... And stairs into the hold... You are also allowed to walk down into the dry dock and walk around underneath. They let the artifact speak for itself. I went away, impressed.
Back to the ship... Walking, via the ferry terminal, Tina settled in, while I went back into town, looking for photos (mostly of the railroad and such) and free wifi... I found both... The railroad near the port, the wifi at the local library... I found the librarian a bit cross... The backpackers and cruise folks tender to sit outside blocking the entrance to the library and adjacent clinic... Apparently one cruise passenger had told her he wouldn't spend any money in town. While she didn't want people sitting on the ground outside, you were welcome to step inside, sit down in a real chair, and use the wifi at no charge... I apologized on behalf of the shop's passengers...
Having checked email, I walked back to the ship where we sat about, enjoyed happy hour in the Crow's Nest, a nice dinner in the dining room, and went to bed...
8:30 am, Akaroa, NZ
Akaroa is the backup port for Lyttelton, the port for Christchurch... But both Lyttelton, and Christchurch have both been devastated by earthquakes, twice since September 2010. When we booked the cruise, we expected to dock at Lyttelton, but the Sept 2010 earthquake closed the port, which reopened within a year, only to be closed again after a second earthquake in February 2012. Reports say the central business district is roped off, off limits, and is expected to be completely pulled down. One woman we talked to said she no longer recognized where she was, the damage was so extensive.
So, we find ourselves calling on Akaroa. Akaroa is a tender port, Volendam anchored out in the channel, and they are using small boats, the ship's tenders to ferry us ashore. Anchoring out in the channel, and the lack of an industrial harbor area means that here in Akaroa, we are not docked next to a pile of wood chips.
Ours was the first tour, and they were trying to squeeze us all onto a single tender... Which made for a very full tender... (full being a relative term... The tender seats 90 passengers as a tender, but 150 souls as a life boat). Today we were a tender, arriving a full 90, if not one or two more... Seating was scarce, and we ended up sitting in seats normally reserved for the tender's crew, up with the coxswain in the raised cockpit.
Ashore, we found another English inspired town (even if lacking a large pile of wood chips) this one with an adjoining French community, a legacy of an early French attempt to establish a colony here. We did not get a chance to explore, for we were off to ride The Tranz Alpine Express, possibly, New Zealand's most famous train, linking Christchurch on the east to the West coast over Arthur's Pass. As tourists, we are to ride the train one way, from Arthur's Pass down towards Christchurch, a bus will take us up to Arthur's Pass... And due to the earthquake we are not riding all the way to Christchurch... And, the train is across the coastal mountains from Akaroa, so the bus ride is longer than expected...
So, it's a long slow haul aboard a bus (locally known as a coach) up the valley that contains the port of Akaroa and our ship, along the sound, then a twisty climb up, then down the other side to the Canterbury Plain, then up the mountains on the other side, to Arthur's Pass... Along the way, evidence of earthquake damage is wide spread, but not excessive, and buildings we visited had certificates of inspection posted in windows. We stopped to look at a two lane country road, that had been offset about 3'.
We stopped in the town of Springfield for scones and tea... In the town's veteran's hall... Then back aboard the coach and up the hill... At the top we went a couple of miles past the railway depot to the top of the pass. There we looked down at a road that descended at a 16% grade... the railway bypassed the top via a tunnel, and were visited by a couple of local wild parrots...
Back aboard, the coach (again), down the hill, to the depot... Off the coach and onto the train... The railroad line, a part of the regular New Zealand railroad system was under going heavy repairs that had closed the tunnel west of the pass, so regular service was disrupted, and instead of traveling on a regular train, we we traveling on a cruise ship charter... A single locomotive, a generator/open car, three coaches, and two food service cars (only one in use)
So, all on board (not "all aboard") we departed down the hill... We were occasionally moving slowly, or stopping to let track workers clear the tracks... We passed a crew installing a new bridge next to the old one we used... Lunch was served, with beer or wine... I spent much of my time on the open car... Down, along the river, over viaducts, through 12 tunnels... Stopping at Springfield this time at the depot, where at least three steel locomotives and a variety of other rolling stock stood in disrepair, apparently, a project of a local railway preservation group. Back aboard for a fast ride across farm land to Ralston where we detrained, and boarded the coaches for the drive back to the ship...
Now aboard... The tenders have been fueled and recovered (since the tenders are also life boats, they must be fully fueled and ready for an emergency). The ship is spinning in the channel, and will soon head eastward, back to the Pacific, to head north to our next port of call, Picton, near the Marlborough area, known for its wine making.
So, we find ourselves calling on Akaroa. Akaroa is a tender port, Volendam anchored out in the channel, and they are using small boats, the ship's tenders to ferry us ashore. Anchoring out in the channel, and the lack of an industrial harbor area means that here in Akaroa, we are not docked next to a pile of wood chips.
Ours was the first tour, and they were trying to squeeze us all onto a single tender... Which made for a very full tender... (full being a relative term... The tender seats 90 passengers as a tender, but 150 souls as a life boat). Today we were a tender, arriving a full 90, if not one or two more... Seating was scarce, and we ended up sitting in seats normally reserved for the tender's crew, up with the coxswain in the raised cockpit.
Ashore, we found another English inspired town (even if lacking a large pile of wood chips) this one with an adjoining French community, a legacy of an early French attempt to establish a colony here. We did not get a chance to explore, for we were off to ride The Tranz Alpine Express, possibly, New Zealand's most famous train, linking Christchurch on the east to the West coast over Arthur's Pass. As tourists, we are to ride the train one way, from Arthur's Pass down towards Christchurch, a bus will take us up to Arthur's Pass... And due to the earthquake we are not riding all the way to Christchurch... And, the train is across the coastal mountains from Akaroa, so the bus ride is longer than expected...
So, it's a long slow haul aboard a bus (locally known as a coach) up the valley that contains the port of Akaroa and our ship, along the sound, then a twisty climb up, then down the other side to the Canterbury Plain, then up the mountains on the other side, to Arthur's Pass... Along the way, evidence of earthquake damage is wide spread, but not excessive, and buildings we visited had certificates of inspection posted in windows. We stopped to look at a two lane country road, that had been offset about 3'.
We stopped in the town of Springfield for scones and tea... In the town's veteran's hall... Then back aboard the coach and up the hill... At the top we went a couple of miles past the railway depot to the top of the pass. There we looked down at a road that descended at a 16% grade... the railway bypassed the top via a tunnel, and were visited by a couple of local wild parrots...
Back aboard, the coach (again), down the hill, to the depot... Off the coach and onto the train... The railroad line, a part of the regular New Zealand railroad system was under going heavy repairs that had closed the tunnel west of the pass, so regular service was disrupted, and instead of traveling on a regular train, we we traveling on a cruise ship charter... A single locomotive, a generator/open car, three coaches, and two food service cars (only one in use)
So, all on board (not "all aboard") we departed down the hill... We were occasionally moving slowly, or stopping to let track workers clear the tracks... We passed a crew installing a new bridge next to the old one we used... Lunch was served, with beer or wine... I spent much of my time on the open car... Down, along the river, over viaducts, through 12 tunnels... Stopping at Springfield this time at the depot, where at least three steel locomotives and a variety of other rolling stock stood in disrepair, apparently, a project of a local railway preservation group. Back aboard for a fast ride across farm land to Ralston where we detrained, and boarded the coaches for the drive back to the ship...
Now aboard... The tenders have been fueled and recovered (since the tenders are also life boats, they must be fully fueled and ready for an emergency). The ship is spinning in the channel, and will soon head eastward, back to the Pacific, to head north to our next port of call, Picton, near the Marlborough area, known for its wine making.
Dunedin
We docked at dawn, at the wood chip dock... Again... The ship is docked at Port Chalmers, Seven miles or so below Dunedin. Beyond Port Chalmers, the channel is too shallow and narrow for our cruise ship...
Port Chalmers is the container port for Dunedin. To starboard is the container dock with huge cranes and stacks of Mersk, P&O, Hapag-Lloyd, other's shipping containers... To port, we are tied to the lumber dock with stacks of logs for export to Japan, and the wood chip pile with its loading device, which resembles a war machine from Star Wars.
We took the Taieri Gorge train, loading at the wood dock, through Dunedin, and eastward into the mountains, through Taieri Gorge, to the highlands beyond, then returning to Dunedin...
Once part of New Zealand's rail system, by the 1980's, it was to be abandoned, but instead was purchased by the local government, and is now operated by a mostly volunteer Railway Trust group... The trip started at the dock, operating on Rail New Zealand tracks, through Dunedin, with its spectacular stone Victorian depot, Then transitions to the Trust's preserved line outside of town. The line is noted for its many tall wrought iron bridges, some over 70 meters tall.
The carriages are surplused, retired stock from the national railways, some nearly 100 years old, with open platforms and paneled wooden interiors others are older prewar cars that have been rebuilt with sealed windows, air conditioning, and would compare favorably with anything used by Amtrak. A few are older cars, rebuilt by the volunteers, with lifts, to allow wheel chairs, but also otherwise modernized. It total is about preserving the railway, but not a museum.
Beyond the scenery, and the rolling stock, there were the volunteers staffing the cars, and the service they provided... (Volunteers also maintain and rebuild the rolling stock) We boarded at 9:30, and we're drinking a glass of local champagne before 10:00... This was followed by beer...
We got off and walked around in Hindon... A wide spot in the canyon with a statue of a herding dog, and of course, local crafts available for sale... As a bonus, Sue (short for Susan) the heading dog who, some years ago (Tina thinks 2003) was the model for the statue, now quite old, deaf, and a bit heavy from feasting on too many treats was among the locals there to great us.
Back aboard, more bridges... More tunnels...
I was surprised that they allowed (even encouraged) us to walk from car to car, and stand on the open platforms of the cars. It is a practice usually prohibited in the US.
The train turned back at Pukerangi, short of the end of the line at Middlemarch where the line beyond has been abandoned and removed, and is now a trail. Again, retail therapy was offered, but today we had a different sort of entertainment... A passenger on the previous train, part of a tourist group (not associated with our ship) taking the train, then a bus from Pukerangi had collapsed was reported to have vomited blood... We had local medical responders and an evacuation helicopter... Medical evacuations seem to be an ongoing theme for the trip... We suspect that the local vendors may have been disappointed in their sales, interrupted as they were by the excitement.
back aboard... A box lunch was offered (with New Zealand wine) then a bit later beer was offered again... Since I wasn't driving I thought it was ok...
Down the gorge, more photos were taken... To Dunedin's railway depot... We got off, but some stayed aboard and returned to the ship...
In town, we explored the depot, then walked into "the Octagon" Dunedin's 8 sided downtown, surrounding an 8 sided downtown plaza... We explored some galleries, found an ATM and got some NZ $, and picked up a few trinkets and a small oil painting (very small, maybe 6"x6")
The ships shuttles were leaving from the Octagonal plaza... The line was long, so we explored some more, then surrendered and lined up... I had my IPad, and discovered that the plaza had free WiFi... Karin went on, returning to the ship, but we stayed behind until the last shuttle, sitting in the park and catching up on emails... Then, catching the last shuttle, returned to the ship...
Now back aboard... We are sitting in the Crows Nest me with a beer, Tina with a glass of wine. I am writing this, Tina is reading... The Captain has announced that there are still 200 guest ashore... Sail out is scheduled for 7:00... Sunset is about 8:00... On the way out we will pass an Albatross Rookery, along with a shore line known for local penguins...
Now 6:30 or so, the gangway has been pulled, a pipe band shoreside is playing, biding us farewell... We sailed by 7:00, and had sailed past the breakwater, past the albatross rookery,
Port Chalmers is the container port for Dunedin. To starboard is the container dock with huge cranes and stacks of Mersk, P&O, Hapag-Lloyd, other's shipping containers... To port, we are tied to the lumber dock with stacks of logs for export to Japan, and the wood chip pile with its loading device, which resembles a war machine from Star Wars.
We took the Taieri Gorge train, loading at the wood dock, through Dunedin, and eastward into the mountains, through Taieri Gorge, to the highlands beyond, then returning to Dunedin...
Once part of New Zealand's rail system, by the 1980's, it was to be abandoned, but instead was purchased by the local government, and is now operated by a mostly volunteer Railway Trust group... The trip started at the dock, operating on Rail New Zealand tracks, through Dunedin, with its spectacular stone Victorian depot, Then transitions to the Trust's preserved line outside of town. The line is noted for its many tall wrought iron bridges, some over 70 meters tall.
The carriages are surplused, retired stock from the national railways, some nearly 100 years old, with open platforms and paneled wooden interiors others are older prewar cars that have been rebuilt with sealed windows, air conditioning, and would compare favorably with anything used by Amtrak. A few are older cars, rebuilt by the volunteers, with lifts, to allow wheel chairs, but also otherwise modernized. It total is about preserving the railway, but not a museum.
Beyond the scenery, and the rolling stock, there were the volunteers staffing the cars, and the service they provided... (Volunteers also maintain and rebuild the rolling stock) We boarded at 9:30, and we're drinking a glass of local champagne before 10:00... This was followed by beer...
We got off and walked around in Hindon... A wide spot in the canyon with a statue of a herding dog, and of course, local crafts available for sale... As a bonus, Sue (short for Susan) the heading dog who, some years ago (Tina thinks 2003) was the model for the statue, now quite old, deaf, and a bit heavy from feasting on too many treats was among the locals there to great us.
Back aboard, more bridges... More tunnels...
I was surprised that they allowed (even encouraged) us to walk from car to car, and stand on the open platforms of the cars. It is a practice usually prohibited in the US.
The train turned back at Pukerangi, short of the end of the line at Middlemarch where the line beyond has been abandoned and removed, and is now a trail. Again, retail therapy was offered, but today we had a different sort of entertainment... A passenger on the previous train, part of a tourist group (not associated with our ship) taking the train, then a bus from Pukerangi had collapsed was reported to have vomited blood... We had local medical responders and an evacuation helicopter... Medical evacuations seem to be an ongoing theme for the trip... We suspect that the local vendors may have been disappointed in their sales, interrupted as they were by the excitement.
back aboard... A box lunch was offered (with New Zealand wine) then a bit later beer was offered again... Since I wasn't driving I thought it was ok...
Down the gorge, more photos were taken... To Dunedin's railway depot... We got off, but some stayed aboard and returned to the ship...
In town, we explored the depot, then walked into "the Octagon" Dunedin's 8 sided downtown, surrounding an 8 sided downtown plaza... We explored some galleries, found an ATM and got some NZ $, and picked up a few trinkets and a small oil painting (very small, maybe 6"x6")
The ships shuttles were leaving from the Octagonal plaza... The line was long, so we explored some more, then surrendered and lined up... I had my IPad, and discovered that the plaza had free WiFi... Karin went on, returning to the ship, but we stayed behind until the last shuttle, sitting in the park and catching up on emails... Then, catching the last shuttle, returned to the ship...
Now back aboard... We are sitting in the Crows Nest me with a beer, Tina with a glass of wine. I am writing this, Tina is reading... The Captain has announced that there are still 200 guest ashore... Sail out is scheduled for 7:00... Sunset is about 8:00... On the way out we will pass an Albatross Rookery, along with a shore line known for local penguins...
Now 6:30 or so, the gangway has been pulled, a pipe band shoreside is playing, biding us farewell... We sailed by 7:00, and had sailed past the breakwater, past the albatross rookery,
Monday, 19 March, Milford Sound, NZ, and the ghost of Captain Cook
Dawn, slowly approaching Milford Sound... With the early light of dawn, we see the silhouette of the mountains, the cleft that is the mouth of the sound, and the light of the light house which guards, and marks this place... Soon a second light appears, the pilot boat coming out to meet us.
As the the dawn skies lighten, the ship's passengers start to stir, then gather, then crowd. With increasing light comes the first hints of colors, first a bit of pink in the sky, then a hint of green on the fiord walls... near Sterling Falls the ship does a pirouette... Spinning a full 360 degrees so all can have a view. We head a bit further into the sound, then paused to disembark passengers for an overland excursion, a bit further in... Now turned westward again and headed out as the sunlight works its way down the fiord wall...
Our cruise travel expert notes that Captain Cook spotted Milford Sound he did not enter...
The Capt. Interrupts the running commentary to warn us that once out of the sound, and back in the Tasman sea we can expect rough seas, and possibly
significant motion... Particularly pitching, not easily controlled with stabilizers, made a bit worse by our need to maintain 18 knts... Back to the commentary again, Back to the Captain now reporting a medical emergency, which would require us to return, back into the sound, and may lead to a helicopter evacuation.
The ship spins again, now headed back up the sound... The light keeps changing... working down slope towards the water, illuminating the side canyons... Adding greens to what had been a pallet composed completely of of blues, accented with white clouds.
Now, back at the head of the sound, a ship's tender has been dropped to the Promenade deck to transport the guest ashore for air evacuation... The Capt. Has reported how difficult communication has been... cell phones don't work, and the cliffs are blocking satellite communications. The ship has take n a position at the north side of the sound, presumably a sheltered place to drop the tender. A bit later, we drop the tender, the ship's Dr. And his patient aboard... They head towards a rendezvous with a helicopter, and a quick trip to shoreside medical care... The helicopter flies over head, then takes off again... The tender soon returns, and the ship starts to move as soon as the tender is lifted free of the bay...
Our return to the open sea was uneventful, the sun now high, the rocks now green, but much less dramatic... At sea, we met a strong swell. The Capt. Has reported that we will proceed at about 18 knts... Still able to visit two other sounds. Fast, but not so fast to require an additional engine (the ship uses diesels to generate electricity both for lights and "hotel functions", as well as to power the electric motors that drive the propellor shafts, that drive the propellers, that make us go) nor so fast as to "hammer" the ship (and passengers) against the sea.
Now, a bit after 4:00... We have completed our passage of Doubtful Sound and Thompson Sounds, that meet, to surround, and isolate Secretary Island. Back in the Tasman Sea once again, the swell was grown, and now sports white caps as well... The ship's motion is increasing, becoming what the lovely Tina calls "snippy"... Added to that, the strong winds are causing the ship to list to port several degrees. Apparently Cook was here...
Now 5:30... We have dodged in to Breaksea Sound, once in protected water, turned south into Acheron Passage, then, to return to sea via the Bowen Passage... Again, the place is defined by Cook, again, he saw it, noted it, but did not visit... On his way to Doubtful Sound... The island we are circumnavigating is named Resolution, after Capt. Cook's ship... What would you expect?
Our Captain (not the renowned, but long dead Capt. Cook) is on the intercom... Again, as we re-enter the Tasman Sea, it will be rough, but should improve as we clear New Zealand and head east towards Dunedin... But not before we pass Duck Cove (Cook's men hunted duck here) past the entrance of the Cook Channel, and Disappointment Bay (apparently Cook didn't like it)
To dinner, then bed, for tomorrow we call at Dunedin.
As the the dawn skies lighten, the ship's passengers start to stir, then gather, then crowd. With increasing light comes the first hints of colors, first a bit of pink in the sky, then a hint of green on the fiord walls... near Sterling Falls the ship does a pirouette... Spinning a full 360 degrees so all can have a view. We head a bit further into the sound, then paused to disembark passengers for an overland excursion, a bit further in... Now turned westward again and headed out as the sunlight works its way down the fiord wall...
Our cruise travel expert notes that Captain Cook spotted Milford Sound he did not enter...
The Capt. Interrupts the running commentary to warn us that once out of the sound, and back in the Tasman sea we can expect rough seas, and possibly
significant motion... Particularly pitching, not easily controlled with stabilizers, made a bit worse by our need to maintain 18 knts... Back to the commentary again, Back to the Captain now reporting a medical emergency, which would require us to return, back into the sound, and may lead to a helicopter evacuation.
The ship spins again, now headed back up the sound... The light keeps changing... working down slope towards the water, illuminating the side canyons... Adding greens to what had been a pallet composed completely of of blues, accented with white clouds.
Now, back at the head of the sound, a ship's tender has been dropped to the Promenade deck to transport the guest ashore for air evacuation... The Capt. Has reported how difficult communication has been... cell phones don't work, and the cliffs are blocking satellite communications. The ship has take n a position at the north side of the sound, presumably a sheltered place to drop the tender. A bit later, we drop the tender, the ship's Dr. And his patient aboard... They head towards a rendezvous with a helicopter, and a quick trip to shoreside medical care... The helicopter flies over head, then takes off again... The tender soon returns, and the ship starts to move as soon as the tender is lifted free of the bay...
Our return to the open sea was uneventful, the sun now high, the rocks now green, but much less dramatic... At sea, we met a strong swell. The Capt. Has reported that we will proceed at about 18 knts... Still able to visit two other sounds. Fast, but not so fast to require an additional engine (the ship uses diesels to generate electricity both for lights and "hotel functions", as well as to power the electric motors that drive the propellor shafts, that drive the propellers, that make us go) nor so fast as to "hammer" the ship (and passengers) against the sea.
Now, a bit after 4:00... We have completed our passage of Doubtful Sound and Thompson Sounds, that meet, to surround, and isolate Secretary Island. Back in the Tasman Sea once again, the swell was grown, and now sports white caps as well... The ship's motion is increasing, becoming what the lovely Tina calls "snippy"... Added to that, the strong winds are causing the ship to list to port several degrees. Apparently Cook was here...
Now 5:30... We have dodged in to Breaksea Sound, once in protected water, turned south into Acheron Passage, then, to return to sea via the Bowen Passage... Again, the place is defined by Cook, again, he saw it, noted it, but did not visit... On his way to Doubtful Sound... The island we are circumnavigating is named Resolution, after Capt. Cook's ship... What would you expect?
Our Captain (not the renowned, but long dead Capt. Cook) is on the intercom... Again, as we re-enter the Tasman Sea, it will be rough, but should improve as we clear New Zealand and head east towards Dunedin... But not before we pass Duck Cove (Cook's men hunted duck here) past the entrance of the Cook Channel, and Disappointment Bay (apparently Cook didn't like it)
To dinner, then bed, for tomorrow we call at Dunedin.
Sunday, 18 March, At sea
Position, 43 02.27 S 159 18.10 E
Crossing the Tasman Sea
The Volendam continues easterly across the Tasman Sea, headed for the southern tip of New Zealand's South Island... We left Burnie Tasmania yesterday afternoon, have sailed all night, will sail all day today, all night tonight, and a bit of tomorrow before reaching NZ...
Even then it will be a day of scenic cruising in Milford Sound, before we reach port at Dunedin.
Aboard, we are lazy, If up early there is coffee on the Lido deck... Breakfast is served in the dining room (and in the Lido) until 9:30 or so... After there is the library, talks (many offering shopping opportunities, but others about the places we are visiting) there is of course a casino, which is well patronized, and if all else fails, you can lie on deck by one of the pools and watch the world go by....
Of course, here in the Tasman sea, there is little beyond the sea, sky, and clouds to distract... This is not a well traveled shipping lane, so as one of the few ships to regularly transit the part of the world, apparently, our weather observations are a welcome addition to the local weather forecast. In fact, we have not seen another vessel since leaving Burnie...
As noted before, the Tasman Sea can be rough, but today there is just a gentle swell, expected to increase as we approach New Zealand, to 12' seas.
Today was the Captain's reception and brunch... This evening, a formal night in the dining room, in between I am blogging, reading, and a bit later will try the beer tasting (not just informal consumption, but an organized tasting of 4 or so beers). All in all it makes for a lazy day.
Complicating the loose sense of time, is our changing time zones... From Sydney, we gained an hour sailing to Melbourne, but lost that hour as we left Taz... We lost another hour over night, and I believe we are now on New Zealand time... I have had to reset the IPad manually in a race to keep up... But now, at least according to the recently synchronized IPad, it is time for beer...
Now we are sitting in the Crow's Nest, watching the sea ahead, in hopes of spotting a whale... The rolling swells of the last 24 hours now wear the occasional white cap, making spotting a spout a bit more difficult. So far we have not been lucky... If you climb high enough on the ship, you realize that your world, as defined by the horizon, is a circle, maybe 20 miles across... a bit like sitting in a snow globe, the sea the floor, the sky the dome, with a distinct lack of snow...
Crossing the Tasman Sea
The Volendam continues easterly across the Tasman Sea, headed for the southern tip of New Zealand's South Island... We left Burnie Tasmania yesterday afternoon, have sailed all night, will sail all day today, all night tonight, and a bit of tomorrow before reaching NZ...
Even then it will be a day of scenic cruising in Milford Sound, before we reach port at Dunedin.
Aboard, we are lazy, If up early there is coffee on the Lido deck... Breakfast is served in the dining room (and in the Lido) until 9:30 or so... After there is the library, talks (many offering shopping opportunities, but others about the places we are visiting) there is of course a casino, which is well patronized, and if all else fails, you can lie on deck by one of the pools and watch the world go by....
Of course, here in the Tasman sea, there is little beyond the sea, sky, and clouds to distract... This is not a well traveled shipping lane, so as one of the few ships to regularly transit the part of the world, apparently, our weather observations are a welcome addition to the local weather forecast. In fact, we have not seen another vessel since leaving Burnie...
As noted before, the Tasman Sea can be rough, but today there is just a gentle swell, expected to increase as we approach New Zealand, to 12' seas.
Today was the Captain's reception and brunch... This evening, a formal night in the dining room, in between I am blogging, reading, and a bit later will try the beer tasting (not just informal consumption, but an organized tasting of 4 or so beers). All in all it makes for a lazy day.
Complicating the loose sense of time, is our changing time zones... From Sydney, we gained an hour sailing to Melbourne, but lost that hour as we left Taz... We lost another hour over night, and I believe we are now on New Zealand time... I have had to reset the IPad manually in a race to keep up... But now, at least according to the recently synchronized IPad, it is time for beer...
Now we are sitting in the Crow's Nest, watching the sea ahead, in hopes of spotting a whale... The rolling swells of the last 24 hours now wear the occasional white cap, making spotting a spout a bit more difficult. So far we have not been lucky... If you climb high enough on the ship, you realize that your world, as defined by the horizon, is a circle, maybe 20 miles across... a bit like sitting in a snow globe, the sea the floor, the sky the dome, with a distinct lack of snow...
Transiting the Tamzin Sea (with notes on blogging at sea)
7:00 am - 41 17.34 S, 151 13.89 E , It is cold, mostly overcast, all is grey, over a steely dark sea. There is a strong swell... (without white caps... Just the swell). We are no longer in the protected channel between Austrailia and Taz... We are on the edge of the Roaring 40's... The place in the southern oceans, below 40 degrees south, north of Antarctica, but below South America, Africa, and Australia, where winds and storms can circle the globe, without land to affect the passage.
There is a strong sense of place, but beyond the sky and seas, and if we are very lucky a whale or two, not a place to sight see... Instead, our day will likely be consumed with reading, relaxing, and the occasional (possibly regular) trips to the dining room.
As usual, I start early, with coffee and crosont, only later collecting the wife for breakfast in the dining room.
The are starting to call for New Zealand immigration... New Zealand officials are on board... Meeting with all passengers face to face, and apparently inspecting our shoes, in preparation for our arrival in New Zealand tomorrow (of course, we don't get off tomorrow... Just cruise the fiords off the west coast of South Island, gritting off the boat will wait one more day...). Being warned, Tina and I have washed the bottoms of our shoes... With my old travel toothbrush (do not be concerned, I have a second)
We reported when our group was called... They confiscated our kangaroo and emu jerky (Sorry Google, No Jerky for you!) but passed our shoes and other treats... Who knew kangaroo jerky was banded in New Zealand?
It is now once again happy hour... This is also St. Patty's Day... Complete with green and white balloons and green decorations... They are serving corned beef in the dining room...
A quick note on blogging... This trip I ran into an unexpected road bump... Tanya (one of the sisters) got sick, potentially seriously sick.. As a result she flew home early, from Melbourne... I needed to suspend posting, until we knew she was safe at home, Barry and the kids knew, and we knew all was well...
Additionally, Internet on the ship sucks... it is slow and expensive. I have been writing the blog on my IPad... It is light, and therefor easy to carry... But I find that most of the time, it is best if I first send it to my windows laptop to edit before posting... It makes things a bit more complicated, which means more delays... With this post I am caught up for now... except for the dolphins on both the starboard and port sides of the ship... but that might be another post...
There is a strong sense of place, but beyond the sky and seas, and if we are very lucky a whale or two, not a place to sight see... Instead, our day will likely be consumed with reading, relaxing, and the occasional (possibly regular) trips to the dining room.
As usual, I start early, with coffee and crosont, only later collecting the wife for breakfast in the dining room.
The are starting to call for New Zealand immigration... New Zealand officials are on board... Meeting with all passengers face to face, and apparently inspecting our shoes, in preparation for our arrival in New Zealand tomorrow (of course, we don't get off tomorrow... Just cruise the fiords off the west coast of South Island, gritting off the boat will wait one more day...). Being warned, Tina and I have washed the bottoms of our shoes... With my old travel toothbrush (do not be concerned, I have a second)
We reported when our group was called... They confiscated our kangaroo and emu jerky (Sorry Google, No Jerky for you!) but passed our shoes and other treats... Who knew kangaroo jerky was banded in New Zealand?
It is now once again happy hour... This is also St. Patty's Day... Complete with green and white balloons and green decorations... They are serving corned beef in the dining room...
A quick note on blogging... This trip I ran into an unexpected road bump... Tanya (one of the sisters) got sick, potentially seriously sick.. As a result she flew home early, from Melbourne... I needed to suspend posting, until we knew she was safe at home, Barry and the kids knew, and we knew all was well...
Additionally, Internet on the ship sucks... it is slow and expensive. I have been writing the blog on my IPad... It is light, and therefor easy to carry... But I find that most of the time, it is best if I first send it to my windows laptop to edit before posting... It makes things a bit more complicated, which means more delays... With this post I am caught up for now... except for the dolphins on both the starboard and port sides of the ship... but that might be another post...
Tazmainia
I awoke before dawn, (coffee may have been involved soon after) as the ship started to dock. Bernie is a small town, 40,000 people, with another 20,000 near by... By local standards it was THE city...
We were docked in there industrial harbor, at the wood chip dock, a huge pile of wood chips, and an equally huge spider like machine for piling and loading the chips. Large semi trucks were delivering more chips... Driving onto platforms which would the lift the entire rig cab high, dumping the chips out the back like a child's toy. Being on an industrial pier, we were not allowed to walk off the ship, but instead, had to take a bus...
Tina and I were booked on a trip to a local wildlife rescue facility, 40 miles away or so... So a bus ride up the coast, into the hills... The hills were strangely familiar, evocative of western Sonoma in California, north of San Francisco... Open grass covered valleys, Monterey cypress and eucalyptus trees on hill tops or standing as wind breaks, small 2 lane roads flanked by wild blackberries... More trees, more water, and more animals, but still much the same feeling...
The Wing's animal park was fun, part local animal rescue, part private zoo... more informal than anything in the US... We got to pet the Tasmanian Devil... Hand fed kangaroos, and touch the koala 's... They were serving fresh, hot scones... Then back aboard the bus for the drive back... Here as well as on previous tours, the Ausie tour guides and drivers were not afraid of including their views into their commentary... We heard about the price of potatoes, subsidies given to a potato processing plant, forest practices, and issues resulting in the increasing size of dairy herds...
Along the shoreline, the guide pointed out low fences, to keep the local penguins off the road when they came ashore at night...
Back to the ship... We got off the tour bus, and got in line for the shuttle into town, without going aboard... The shuttle arrived, filled with locals, here to visit the ship, and bid our captain farewell... He and the ship have been calling on Bernie for 8 years... This is the last call of the season, and next year a different ship with a different captain will call. This wasn't just a ceremonial visit... This was a farewell from friends.
The shuttle offered three stops in town, The first at their local visitor's center and art gallery, The Maker's Workshop, The second at the local history museum, which the map noted was close to the library, with cheap Internet access, the third, 4 blocks away, in the center of downtown... We got off at the second, stepping inside just as a downpour started, toured the museum, with it's recreated 1880's street, gallery about Austrailia in the wars, and up front, 4 women, spinning wool... When we were done, the rain had stopped, the sun was out, and all was good in Bernie... we went by the library, but they didn't have wifi... just machines you could use...
We walked downtown, armed with maps showing art-deco buildings... Downtown was a time warp... Little shops lining the streets, much like an American small town circa 1960, before suburban shopping malls and Walmart and acres of parking lots... (There was a Kmart with a parking structure off a block, and a Woolworth's on the main street, contributing, rather than spoiling the illusion) There were local guides, wearing red vests to answer questions, but a distinct shortage of tourist shops selling t-shirts. We walked to the ocean front, with a wonderful wooden boardwalk, back along the beach, to the Maker's Workshop (and bus stop number 1).
There was penguin fence along the bluff, and Tina and I searched unsuccessfully, but at least a few of our fellow passengers saw a penguin or two. Inside the Maker's Workshop, we discovered an unexpected treasure... The building hosted spaces for local artists to work in public, then sell their work... The city had until recently had a large paper mill, now closed... While losing jobs, the city also went from polluted to sparkling clean... To some extent many of the artists were remembering their heritage by their paper based art, including life size figures, exotic hand made papers, and prints on paper... The space also included a locally made caterpillar underground excavator, as well as a cafe, and a tourist information desk. I believe it may be the nicest tourist center I have ever seen, maybe the best example of a working artist studio... The city was delightful... it seemed like a city embracing change, rather than just remember the good old
days...
Eventually we caught the shuttle back to the port and our ship, checked in with the sister (Karin, the remaining sister) and again found seats in the Crow's Nest for Happy Hour. Just before sail away we went out on deck... Bernie had one more card to play... On the dock, in orange safety vests was a small pipe band... Three bagpipes, three snare drums and one drummer with a larger drum, along with one other kilted man, sans instrument... As the ship cast off her lines and sailed away, they played...
Thoughts on Australia.... (at least the tiny part we have seen...)
It is modern, vibrant, highly urban in Sydney and Melbourne, there were wonderful forests we visited both around Melbourne and on Taz...
Australia is expensive... We knew that going in, but we're still surprised... generally, liquor is expensive on a cruise ship, leading some passengers to either smuggle liquor on board, or disembark when possible to drink... in a strange juxtaposition, beer aboard is half the price it was ashore...
Australians were welcoming... friendly... gregarious...
They have all the technology we do, but beyond smart phones, it isn't as obvious... They have wifi in coffee shops, but people don't sit at the tables with their laptops open, and free wifi is difficult to find.
Australia is a huge place... Much of the outback maybe dead dry, without vegetation, but at Ayers Rock there was lots of plants and trees. We associate eucalyptus with a dry climate... Here at least some are part of a fern forest. We only saw the Blue Mountains from the air, missed the tropical north, as well as the barrier reef... I think I need to come back...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)